Big Mountain Music Festival, Khao Yai

Posted on July 26, 2014 by koomatzu

The Glastonbury Festival of Thailand?

The Big Mountain Music Festival takes place in December every year at the Bonanza venue in Khao Yai, just a couple of hours drive outside of Bangkok.

Big Mountain Music Festival 5

As of now, the Big Mountain Music Festival is still only 5 years old, so it’s still a relatively new event. It’s particularly popular with under 30s and teens, and has less of a diversity of ages than other western music festivals. Also, as you can tell from the use of primarily Thai language on their website and in their promotions, the Big Mountain Music Festival is not overly famous among foreigners either.

The Big Mountain Music Festival is open to roughly 40,000 festival-goers with tickets going on sale around September time for 1500 baht. You’ll need to buy your tickets from one of the Thai Ticket Major offices – one of the easiest to reach and most central Thai Ticket Major shops in Bangkok is in Zen, Central World.

Music at BMMF

There are a total of roughly half a dozen stages scattered around the grounds of the Big Mountain Music Festival at Bonanza, all with an amazing Thai mountain backdrop. Most of the bands are Thai, however there are a couple of not-so-famous foreign bands too.

In the typical, creative Thai style, the Big Mountain Music Festival has plenty of loveable and quirky details throughout that make it a completely unique festival experience. The gates open at 3pm so you can witness the sun set over the awesome landscape and decorations too.

At Big Mountain Music Festival 5, the stages had different themes and characteristics, the most prominent stages being the Cow Stage, with a giant swinging cow head and crazy spinning eyes; the Sticky Rice Stage, with an oversized sticky rice basket for the DJs to perform from; the Sperm stage, with lots of floating sperms lining the tent; and – my personal favourite – the Ferris Wheel Stage, with dozens of neon, colourful ferris wheels spinning away behind the stage.

One awesome bonus, was that you could ride the ferris wheels for a behind the scenes view of the stage for just 40 baht. Watching the BMMF Superband playing while the crowd bounced around pumping their fists during sunset was well worth the money!

As for the atmosphere at the Big Mountain Music Festival, it’s much more mellow and well behaved than your standard music festivals. Looking around, there were never many other people drinking alcohol – despite the multitude of Chang beer tents scattered around the place – and many people seemed to opt to sit down at many of the stages. It has quite a contrastingly pleasant atmosphere, however if you prefer a little more excitement, just make sure to head to the main stage. There were plenty of drunken and excitable festival goers to dance around with when I visited, it was awesome!

Dress warm!

One word of advice if you’re heading to the Big Mountain Music Festival: Bring a hoodie or a jacket, it’s seriously cold!!! Just be prepared that, even if it is hot everywhere else in Thailand, BMMF is located in the mountains and the temperatures drop massively once the sun sets. Most of the Thais use it as a good excuse to wear their woolley hats, scarves and jackets to the Big Mountain Music Festival.

Where to stay

The Big Mountain Music Festival lasts 2 days – you can either stay two nights in a nearby hotel or you can camp. For campers, there are two major areas in Bonanza for tents: external and internal. If you’re planning on staying out and watching music until late then it’s a good idea to sleep inside the grounds, if you actually want some sleep then you might want to camp outside instead. You can either hire a ready-pitched tent or bring you own tent.

If camping outside, for a 3x3m pitch for your own tent it costs 450 baht. For an already-pitched 2 person tent, it costs 900 baht. You can check in the day before the festival starts and head to the pre party if camping externally.

Alternatively, if camping internally, it costs 1200 baht to rent an already-pitched tent. You can only check in on the day of the festival rather than the night before if camping inside. You also need to bring your own sleeping bag (highly recommended). You can book tents via Thai Ticket Major when buying your Big Mountain Music Festival tickets.

All of the local hotels are located quite a few kilometres away from Bonanza. However, this isn’t a problem as there are plenty of motorcycle taxis kicking around outside the festival grounds during all hours. The earlier you book the better, as hotels book up very quickly in the run up to Big Mountain Music Festival. I stayed in a hotel called Eco Valley Lodge – this was a really nice hotel located about 10km away. It may be worth getting hotel staff to write directions in Thai for you to give to the drivers though.

Getting around

If staying in a hotel in Khao Yai, hotel staff should be able to arrange a songtaew for you to get to the festival. Depending on how far away your hotel is, this will cost a few hundred baht. Getting back from the festival, there won’t be any songtaews so you’ll have no choice but to take a motorcycle taxi. They’re not too cheap, you’ll likely be charged between 200 and 400 baht per person.

How to get to Khao Yai

You can get a minivan from around 3200 baht from Bangkok to Khao Yai, hotels can arrange this. Alternatively, you can catch the shuttle bus from Bangkok to Big Mountain Festival on the Saturday morning and back on the Monday morning. Of course this may be subject to change in upcoming festivals, but prices generally cost around 550 baht each way. If there’s a group of you travelling together, it may be worth hiring your own minivan – Oriental Escape have minivans for hire for 3500 baht from Bangkok to Khao Yai.

Top 5 Fun Things To Do In Bangkok

Posted on July 16, 2014 by koomatzu

Not into sightseeing around temples? Looking for somewhere fun to take the kids? If you look hard enough, there are plenty of fun things to do in Bangkok other than shopping and sightseeing, both for adults and children.

Fun Things To Do In Bangkok

1: Thai Wake Park

Apparently one of the top wakeboard parks in the world, the Thai Wake Park is great for an extreme day out or, alternatively, for a longer overnight stay at the on-site RIDE n’ Lazy Hotel. The park is particularly useful for people of all abilities, especially for the more advanced, as it has a whole load of obstacles and ramps to navigate. The park is open all day every day until the late hours of the night, just be careful of the mosquitoes if you are heading there after dark. It’s about an hour’s drive outside of Bangkok centre – around a 500 baht cab ride. For 2 hours use of the cables, prices start from 1100 baht with equipment rental included. If you’re willing to brave the mosquitoes at night time though, the price is just 100 baht per hour…

2 Flow House Bangkok

With an easy, central location in Bangkok city, the Flow House makes a more convenient alternative to the Thai Wake Park. With cool tunes, good food and regular evening events, it makes a cool place to simply hang out (useful if you have lazier friends tagging along!). The flow house is suitable for people of all ages and seems to be particularly popular for kids parties – it even has a plunge pool for kids too. A one hour session with an instructor on the Flow Rider costs 750 back per person. Depending on what time you go (weekends are the busiest), you may have to share with up to 8 other people. Useful for something to do after a tiring ride on the flow Rider, there also happens to be a shopping village, K-Village, nearby with some nice restaurants and fast food places.

3 Follow Me Bike Tours

A bike tour is a great, fun way to explore the city, see all the famous sights and catch a glimpse of local life in the back street sois. Follow Me Bike Tours, in my opinion, is the best bike tour company of many in Bangkok that do this. They have a couple of routes for you to choose from where you can witness Bangkok’s temples, jungles, river boats, China Town and even it’s cuisine on with a food/ bike tour combo… All of the tour guides at Follow Me Bike Tours are English speaking and super friendly, making their tours all the more relaxing. With regular breaks throughout, tours are suitable for cyclists of all abilities, including children and the not-so-fit people. Prices start from 1100 baht for 4 – 5 hour bike rides, but if you’d rather go it alone, why not hire a Pun Pun bike instead?

4 Mansion 7 Haunted House

Mansion 7 makes for a unique, live haunted house experience, complete with ghoulish actors to chase you around. On sites, there are bars and games such as pool and billiards, all in a quirky haunted setting. The actual haunted house experience cost 320 back each and is actually relatively short for the money – perhaps around 20 minutes? (The time goes terrifyingly slow while you are inside though!) You get to choose from a selection of 3 scenarios with creepy background stories. You are then left to find your way through a dark ghost house while being crept up on, screamed at and chased by the Mansion 7 staff. Definitely not recommended for kids…

5 Fantasia Lagoon Water Park

Bangkok is home to a multitude of waterparks, however the Fantasia Lagoon Water Park is one of it’s lesser known, hidden gems. Hidden away on the top of a mall rooftop on the edge of the city, Fantasia Lagoon boasts amazing views over the surrounding cityscape – speeding down a water slide is all the more scary/ awesome when you have dramatic rooftop views to go with it. It’s not so great for adults, but perfect if you’re entertaining kids in Bangkok as there’s loads of cool little kid’s areas: a giant mushroom wonderland, pirate ships, water guns and – not to mention – an awesome amusement park attached to it as well. Another great benefit of Fantasia Lagoon Water Park, is that it’s super cheap at just 100 baht per person…

6 The Escape Hunt

The Escape Hunt is a puzzle-solving, live escape game with a good ol’ London detective theme. This is a great way to escape the heat of Bangkok while exercising your brain with challenging puzzles. You will be locked inside a themed door and left to examine the surroundings and objects in order to escape. The game lasts 60 minutes, after which, you can relax with a drink in the lounge, or dress up in detective attire for a classic photo opportunity. You can go in groups of between 2 and 5; prices start from 600 baht per person for an hour of mystery solving.

Know any other fun things to do in Bangkok? Leave a comment below!

Averages Costs In Thailand

Posted on June 25, 2014 by koomatzu

How much does an average holiday cost in Thailand? Food, drink and shopping is all very cheap in Thailand so you don’t need to worry about breaking the bank while enjoying your travels…

You tend to get much better value for money in mainland cities such as Chiang Mai, Kanchanaburi or Bangkok, than you do at beach resorts. The Thai islands are particularly expensive – I’ve found that, although you may pay double the price for a restaurant meal on an island as you do on the mainland, the food is usually not so good quality either. Anyway:

How much does food cost in Thailand?

If eating locally at the street stalls, you can buy a meal from just 25 baht – that’s well under $1 or 50p. If you are travelling on a budget, or just want to sample some authentic, local Thai food, then street food is a must.

However, if you’re staying in tourist areas and eating near popular sightseeing attractions, expect costs to be a little higher (but still super cheap!). A standard meal in a restaurant in Thailand will cost between 100 baht and 350 baht on average – this works out to about $3 to $10.

As a general rule of thumb, usually, if you’re spending 250 baht or more for a meal, it should be a pretty nice place. When on holiday, eating out at the nicer establishments is very affordable and easily within the average person’s budget.

How much does a beer cost in Thailand?

At a cheap and casual bar, beers can cost from 60 baht (£1.50 or $2.50) for a large bottle of Tiger, Chang or Singha beer. A drink at one of the western style pubs in the city will cost up to 250 for a pint of Guiness or a bottle of cider like Magners. Cocktails tend to start from around 150 or 200 baht. Cheaper clubs and bars may sell cocktail buckets for around 300 baht.

How much does a T-shirt cost in Thailand?

You can get some really cheap clothing and shoes in the markets of Thailand. T-shirts typically cost around 200 baht, flip flops from 40 baht, women’s denim shorts from 80 baht and sarongs for around 100 baht.

How much does an average hotel cost in Thailand?

There are some nice, modern and clean hostels in Thailand available from 200 baht a night in most areas. In Bangkok, Khaosan Road is home to many of the more cheaper, backpacker hotels. While you’re staying in a country with such a low cost of living though, you might want to make the most of it and upgrade to a more luxurious hotel. From only 1500 baht ($45) per room, you can find some amazing hotels. For a guide on where to stay and the top hotels for different budgets, check my Bangkok guide here.

To avoid getting ripped off by greedy stallholders, I recommend checking my shopping price guide and street food guide for more prices before you go. You might also want to check out a more detailed account of the costs of living in Thailand here.

Best Time To Visit Thailand

Posted on June 14, 2014 by koomatzu

Thailand Seasons

The most comfortable time to visit Thailand is between October and March time. At this time of year, Thailand is at it’s coolest temperature with the least rainfall and humidity. During this time, temperatures tend to stay in the low 30 degrees.

Conversely, April and May are the hottest months to visit, with temperatures often hitting almost 40 degrees. However, tourist prices and hotel costs can be cheaper because it is low season. For some, the hot temperatures can be unbearable in the middle of the day and make it very difficult to do any kind of strenuous sporty activities such as bike tours.

From June to August is the rainy season in Thailand. It’s cooler than the hot season but still warmer than Christmas season. Most days, there is not actually that much rain and it’s quite consistent, usually either rainy storms during the night or heavy rain for an hour during the daytime. However, if you are unlucky, you might experience a fortnight long storm of miserable weather; it’s a bit of a gamble.

Cool Festivals In Thailand

Here is a small list of some of the most fun and interesting festivals and events held throughout Thailand. Most festival dates differ year by year – you may want to check exact dates if you are planning a trip specially around a Thai festival!

Chinese New Year – Late January/ February
Silver Lake Music Fest – Early March
Wat Bang Phra Tattoo Festival – March
Songkran Water Festival – Mid April (13th – 15th)
Hua Hin Jazz Festival – June
Vegetarian Festival – October
Loy Krathong – November (Full Moon)
Big Mountain Music Festival – Early December
Thai Father’s Day (King’s Birthday) – 5th December

Big Mountain Music Festival

Top 5 Parks in Bangkok

Posted on May 3, 2014 by koomatzu

Bangkok is great for exploring botanical gardens and natural parks. Many of the parks in Bangkok are very well maintained and clean – a great way to cool off and break up a day of sightseeing. Just don’t get freaked out by the monitor lizards while you’re relaxing on the grass!

Here are a couple of the top parks in Bangkok that I’ve found so far:

Best Parks In Bangkok

1: Lumpini Park – Bangkok’s most popular park

This may be too predictable to some, and for that I apologise – but Lumpini Park is THE park that comes to mind when people think of Bangkok. It’s where locals, tourists and expats alike come to chill out and cool off under the shady tropical canopy, right in the centre of Bangkok. Lumpini Park is located right next to Silom, making it a great break from exploring all of the busy shops and sights of the area such as Japanese street.

Although not the largest, Lumpini Park is one of Bangkok’s biggest parks and has pretty much everything in one place: a lake with pedalos, bikes for hire, outdoor gym, indoor fitness centre and a host of different maintained gardens. Lumpini is always bustling with joggers, cyclists, inquisitive tourists and locals lazing on picnic mats, it’s fantastic for people watching.

2 Benjakiti Park – Man-made and perfectly maintained

Benjakiti Park is my personal best park, completely underrated as one of Bangkok’s most beautiful parks. It lacks the more rugged and natural beauty of parks such as Lumpini, however it’s ruthlessly maintained grounds offer a delightful, contrastingly ‘neat’ beauty, with open panoramic views of the Bangkok cityscape across it’s lake.

The Bangkok Park is often lined with purple flower beds as far as the eye can see, with perfect colour themes and maintained flower displays always immaculately kept. During the daytime, Benjakiti Park offers an unbelievably tranquil and peaceful atmosphere for a capital city, completely free of people during the work hours. However it also offers a wonderful contrast of a vibrant atmosphere during the evenings when it is buzzing with runners, students, and newlyweds and graduates having photo sessions. It’s totally enjoyable at either time of day, evenings being a great time for people watching by the lakeside.

Although it’s not as huge as its gigantic sister parks of Bangkok, Benjakiti Park makes an easy detour from shopping at Terminal 21, or visiting an expo at the convention centre next door.

3 King Rama IX – Flowers Galore

The King Rama IX Park boasts the title of Bangkok’s largest pack at a massive 200 acres in size. It costs 20 baht in entrance fees (50p or 80 cents), however this is a bargain considering how long you could potentially spend exploring the park. There are absolutely loads of different nurseries and themed gardens to explore, plus a museum dedicated to King Rama IX.

If you love flower displays, be sure to visit King Rama IX park during December, when the whole park is covered in elaborate flower displays to commemorate the King’s birthday. You’ll find everything from simple colour patterns in the flower beds,to charming displays of flowerpot men and elaborate flower houses.

4 Tae Chio Cemetery & Park – Off the beaten track ruggedness

If you’d rather explore off the beaten track and away from the tourist scene of Bangkok, the Tae Chio Cemetery offers a contrastingly hidden and rugged change of scenery. You won’t find impressive flower displays and neatly maintained lawns here, however you will get a glimpse into the everyday lives of Thai locals.

Strolling through the shaded park path, you might come across elderly men playing board games; people working out in the outdoor gym; youths enjoying a game of the acrobatic version of football known as Takraw; and hidden shrines and Chinese temples. It feels refreshing to be able to discover – without mention in the guidebooks – some of the hidden gems around Tae Chio Cemetery.

5 Wachira Benthat Butterfly Park – Cycling in Bangkok

Wachira Benthat is Bangkok’s 2nd biggest park at 150 acres big. It also boasts close proximity to the neighbouring Queen Sirikit Park, Chatuchak Park and the hugely popular Chatuchak Market. Wachira Benthat offers a more natural landscape in comparison to Bangkok’s other parks, there aren’t really any flower displays and landmarks as such, however the grounds are flat and extensive – ideal for a bike ride. 99% of the visitors to this Park will be on bike and it’s worth hiring one for a nice shady bike ride in Bangkok.

Top 5 Rooftop Bars In Bangkok

Posted on April 26, 2014 by koomatzu

One of my favourite things about Bangkok is that I can actually afford to hang out at cool rooftop bars! And, not to mention, there are a great deal to choose from as well – cheap ones, wow-factor ones, quirky ones… The list goes on!

Of course, if you’re only on holiday in Bangkok for a short amount of time, you can only visit so many rooftop bars during your stay. So here are some of my best rooftop bars in Bangkok for you to choose from…

Top Rooftop Bars In Bangkok

1: Sky Bar – Bangkok’s most famous rooftop bar

I’m sure you’ve probably seen the rooftop bar scene in Hangover 2 – where they meet with an undercover cop at the posh restaurant with unbelievably amazing views over Bangkok city… Well, that’s the Sky Bar! If you are looking for impressive rooftop views, then I highly recommend the Sky Bar, it is the best rooftop bar in Bangkok for the best view.

The Sky Bar isn’t cheap, and it’s not really a place to chill out with a couple of laid-back drinks. I would categorise the Sky Bar more as an attraction, just to admire the amazing view and atmosphere of the second tallest building in Bangkok. It’s a little bit of a rip-off by Bangkok standards, but well worth a visit!

2 The Nest Rooftop Bar – Sophisticated quirkiness with cityscape views

The Sky Bar is a cosy and chilled out rooftop bar, best for couples and groups of friends. My favourite aspect of it has to be the comfortable bed chairs and sandpit floors (much more sophisticated than I am making it sound right now!). With the dark, ambiently lit atmosphere, you could easily spend a romantic date there, cosying up on the pillows in your own private dome chair.

Alternatively, there are also normal tables and chairs with live music and pumping chillout tunes throughout the night – great for enjoying some affordable food, cocktails and beers with friends. The music can be a little too loud to chat, but it still makes for a cool and trendy hangout in Bangkok – although the view is one of the least impressive of all the rooftop bars.

3 Above Eleven – Relaxed & Affordable Rooftop Bar

With it’s quirky interior furnishings of grass patches and tree-shaped pillars, Above Eleven reminds me a little bit of The Nest rooftop bar. It has the creative finishing touches but, in comparison to The Nest, it boasts more impressive cityscape views and an even more casual atmosphere. The background music is a little less disruptive for chatting, so it makes for a more relaxed hangout among friends. And best of all, this sleek Bangkok rooftop bar is highly affordable for both food and drink.

4 Balco Bar – Cheap & Cheerful Riverside Views

The Balco Bar is probably the least tall rooftop bar in Bangkok on my top 5 list here. However it is located right on the Chao Praya River, so you can easily entertain yourself watching the boats go by throughout the night.

The Balco Bar offers the most casual atmosphere of all the rooftop bars and it’s cheap prices attract many local Thais. If you want to experience an authentic Thai evening out, be sure to try the popular Thai style barbecue. The waiter will set up your very own barbecue grill and you will be able to fry your own meat and vegetables – Thai style!

5 The Speakeasy At Hotel Muse – Jazz and vintage goodness

For all vintage lovers and jazz fans, the Speakeasy combines spectacular urban rooftop views with a unique 1920s theme. The great range and quality of cocktails is where this rooftop bar shines though – the expert staff can mix you all kinds of cocktails from old school mixings to custom combinations. The outer rooftop bar itself is set out like a vintage lawn, complete with fake grass, cosy floor lamps and comfortable sofas. Jamjar cocktail glasses and jazz tunes in the background add all the finishing touches to make this a unique and special rooftop bar.

Which is your best rooftop bar in Bangkok? We’d love to hear – drop a comment below to let us know your top rooftop bar!

Top 5 Quirky Things To Do In Bangkok

Posted on April 15, 2014 by koomatzu

Bangkok offers so many quirky, creative and unique places to see. Whether it’s a slightly mental cat themed pub, a disturbing Forensic Museum of murder victims, or a cringingly inappropriate shrine of penises – Bangkok has it all!

So, yeah… Welcome to Bangkok! Here are some of my favourite finds I’ve come across while living in Bangkok, most of which are pretty off the beaten track…

Top 5 Off The Beaten Track Sights In Bangkok

1: Penis Shrine – Bangkok’s little secret

Also known as the Chao Mae Tuptim Shrine, this modest little shrine is not exactly advertised openly by the people of Bangkok. It seems to be treated more like a dirty little secret, hidden by overgrown vegetation at the back of a swanky hotel parking lot in central Bangkok. It really is small – literally the size of somebody’s back garden – however, they’ve really managed to pack a whole lot of penises into this small space!

If you are interested to check out this quirky fertility shrine, or simply take some unconventional holiday snaps, off the beaten track of Bangkok, you could easily mix it with some high street shopping in Siam centre.

2 The Artist’s House – A quirky canal-side cafe

The Artists House is a local arts studio-come-cafe, hidden down a maze of backstreets in suburban Bangkok. Finding the place is a challenge, however it seems to make a visit there all the more sweet when you finally discover this quirky, secret cafe way off the beaten track in Bangkok.

The ancient teak-wood cafe has a tranquil ambience, set right on a canal side amongst Bangkok locals going about their day-to-day business. You can take a gander around the small art studio upstairs, watch a Thai puppet performance in the showroom, buy arty souvenirs from the gift shop, or enjoy simply sitting on the peaceful canalside with a 20 baht cup of coffee.

3 Cat Cafe – Not for the cat haters

There are actually a couple of Cat Cafes scattered around Bangkok, the most popular one being located in Thonglor. Whether you just want to spend an afternoon playing with cute lil’ kitties, sniggering at crazy cat lovers or both, this place should be perfect for you! It’s worth visiting just for the sheer weirdness of the place – it’s strange rules, OTT hygiene demands and overall treatment of the cats almost as if they were hairy royalty… It’s an odd experience.

4 Siriraj Forensic Museum – The darkside of Bangkok

This one is definitely not for the squeamish: The Forensic Museum is located within hospital grounds just across the Chao Phraya River – it can be easily visited while ferry hopping along the riverside temples of Bangkok. It’s a pretty grim place though, with it’s pickled foetuses, mummified murder rapists, horrific photographs of murder victims and disturbingly detailed accounts from the tragic tsunami disaster. I’ve always thought of myself to have a pretty strong stomach when it comes to gorey sights, however I think I nearly passed out during my visit here! It’s an interesting place to visit for any medical nerds out there though…

5 Talat Rot Fai – Vintage Train Market

If you’re not a fan of shopping or markets, don’t write off the Talat Rot Fai Train Market just yet. A little more off the beaten track than the other markets of the city, this quirky Bangkok bazaar is packed with vintage sights, retro market stalls and cool Volkswagen camper van bars. You’ll find collectable toys and memorabilia from years gone past, as well as a decent selection of bars with good music. There is an interesting scattering of vintage vehicles and antiques throughout as well, just to make things a little more interesting.

Best Beaches In Thailand

Posted on March 29, 2014 by koomatzu

Which beach in Thailand?

Whether you’re hoping for postcard-perfect famous movie beaches, backpacker party islands, family-friendly beach resorts, laid back island getaways or simply Thai beaches that are easy to get to, there are beach resorts in Thailand to suit everybody’s preferences. I’m not a seasoned beach expert from Thailand, but I think I’ve at least been to enough beaches in Thailand to give my own rough guide on which beach is best for who.

Thailand Beach Guide

Beaches near Bangkok

Hua Hin

Okay, it’s important to know that Hua Hin does not have the best beaches in Thailand. If you’re looking for paradisal, soft white sand beaches like in all the holiday brochures, then I don’t recommend Hua Hin for you. The skyscraper backdrop and brownish sands of the main Hua Hin beach in particular makes it far from one of the most beautiful beaches in Thailand (but hey, it does have some tough competition). But! I’d say that Hua Hin is by far the one of the easiest of beach resorts to get to from Bangkok. It’s located on the mainland about a two hour drive from Bangkok – no annoying ferry transfers and no expensive flights necessary.

Because of it’s mainland location, Hua Hin has plenty of excursions available and is within easy access to popular places like Kanchanaburi and Bangkok, plus a nice variety of waterfalls, temples and attractions. The beaches are still ok too, with plenty of sports and things to do available. Perhaps one of Hua Hin’s best attributes, is it’s more relaxed and honest atmosphere in comparison to the heavily tourist trap vibe that is so prevalent in most of the other Thai beach resorts. Hua Hin is relatively free from the sleazy bars and sex tourism of Thailand – this makes it a lot more pleasant for families and couples etc.

Koh Samet

Just a 2 or 3 hour journey away from Bangkok, the hugely underrated island of Koh Samet is perfect for purely sitting back, relaxing and doing nothing! It’s a tiny little island so there isn’t much to do in the way of attractions and activities, but there are still plenty of bars, restaurants and beaches – great as a getaway for Thai expats, or as a break from sightseeing for tourists.

Popular with Bangkok locals, Koh Samet – similarly to Hua Hin – boasts much less of a tourist trap atmosphere and is super laid back. In fact, Koh Samet is my personal favourite beach resort in Thailand. Not only is it easy to get to and chilled out, but it also has some really beautiful, soft white sand beaches – skyscraper free too.

Pattaya

I’ve never been to Pattaya, it doesn’t really appeal to me. Pattaya is mainly famed for it’s attraction of sexpats as it has a crap load of gogo bars and stuff like that. But it’s by the beach too! A sexpat paradise! However, I really don’t think Pattaya would be an ideal beach resort for couples, families or groups of friends looking for cool parties. Super close to Bangkok though – just a 90 minute drive away.

Koh Chang

Koh Chang is the second biggest island in Thailand and still reasonably close to Bangkok. It takes about 4 or 5 hours to get there via bus and ferry, or you can fly direct from Bangkok. Again, Koh Chang doesn’t seem overly touristy so you’re not as prone to getting ripped off or feeling like a walking money sign. This also has the added bonus of making it easy to get around, despite it’s large size, because of the cheapness of songtaew taxis.

There are plenty of activities and attractions such as waterfalls and zip wires, and the white sandy beaches to the western side are very pretty. Koh Chang has something for everyone – backpacker beaches and clubs; gogo bars in the ‘Little Pattaya’ area (but easily avoided); quiet little fishing village hideaways to escape the crowds; and family-friendly restaurants on the main beachfront.

Eastern Coast

Located on the eastern side of southern Thailand, these islands take a really long time to get to if you’re not flying. You can catch a coach or train to the islands, however this takes between 8 and 12 hours and is not a comfortable journey. Coaches there are usually only frequented by backpackers and hardened travelers on a budget. These three islands are pretty good for a bit of Thailand island hopping.

Koh Samui

Koh Samui is one of the more famous islands in Thailand and hence a little spoilt by tourism for some. Taking a coach from Bangkok to these islands, I can’t help but feel like some kind of dopey farm animal being herded around by shouty Thais – it just seems to have a slightly fake and money driven vibe. It’s not that bad though, and you can still easily escape this if you stay away from the main strip.

There is plenty to do on Koh Samui for holiday makers of all backgrounds – walking streets, water sports and day tours – plus it has some lovely beaches. The island is relatively big and the roads in good condition, so it’s very easy to rent a scooter to get around yourself. It’s also big enough to avoid the sleazy areas. Good all-rounder island.

Koh Phangnan

Koh Phangnan is a slightly more adventurous alternative to Koh Samui. Much smaller and with more wild, jungle landscapes, it’s ideal for both nature lovers and backpackers. Koh Phangnan is mostly renowned for it’s famous full moon parties and crazy backpacker parties so it tends to attract mostly younger travelers with a mission to get totally off their faces.

It’s good fun to explore the winding, overgrown roads on a moped though, or search around for hidden secluded beaches. Koh Phangnan has some of the most beautiful beaches and is perfect for a care free holiday for groups of friends, solo travelers or couples.

Koh Tao

Koh Tao – the diver’s island. People mainly go to Koh Tao either to join a diving school, or to get drunk and party. It’s a little more laid back than Koh Phangnan and with less under-20 year old backpackers and more drunken divers of all ages. Again, it’s quite a care free island to hang out with a group of friends or meet people as a solo traveler. Despite it’s small size there is still loads of fun nightlife.

Despite it’s reputation as an unspoilt Thai island though, I think Koh Tao is still quite touristy – it even has a bit of a tuk tuk cartel going on. I was always under the impression that Koh Tao had the best beaches in Thailand too, but it’s no better than Koh Samui or Koh Phangnan in this respect. In particular, the main beach is very disappointing and completely littered with rubbish. You can still find very beautiful beaches in Koh Tao though, don’t get me wrong.

I think it’s important to know that Koh Tao does not have the most beautiful, clear water conditions for diving either. This is a misconception. Apparently it is the best island for diving simply because of it’s abundance of diving schools – not the conditions.

Western Coast

Phuket

Phuket is a huge island, home to some of the best beaches in Thailand. Phuket boasts the famous Phang Nga bay, known as James Bond island, a highly popular excursion among tourists. Here, you will find picture perfect scenes right out of the brochure; however this has also made it very touristy and it’s hard to escape the crowds and the tack from the resorts.

If you don’t mind the crowds and tack – go for it; if you hate crowds and tack – track down the quieter areas of Phuket like Kata, you might still enjoy the powder white sand beaches. It’s a big island with decent roads, so it’s still possible to explore lesser known places by moped. You might have to sacrifice seclusion in Phuket, but you’ll get to see some of the most beautiful beaches in Thailand.

Phi Phi

I’m not going to lie: I haven’t been to Koh Phi Phi yet. But Koh Phi Phi is reputed to have the most beautiful beaches in Thailand. You don’t need to go there to recognize it’s famous scenes from movies like The Beach. So I hear, it’s recent fame in Hollywood movies has attracted heavy tourism which often spoils people’s experiences. I personally reckon that it would still be less touristy than Phuket but it’s best not to expect completely secluded and unspoilt beaches to avoid disappointment.

Of course there are loads more beaches and islands in Thailand that I’ve not included in this guide. But for all the main Thai beaches and islands, I hope this helps in deciding which beach is right for you.

Vegetarian Food In Thailand

Posted on March 8, 2014 by koomatzu

Despite Buddhism typically being one of the most prominent religions of Thailand, vegetarian and vegan food is actually rather hard to come by, particularly in Thailand’s capital city Bangkok.

You’ll find an abundance of skewered meats, grilled fish, processed meatballs, deep fried chicken and meaty fried… well everything, yet very little vegetarian protein alternatives. Tofu or vegetarian dishes are nowhere near as common as meat dishes in Thailand.

Thankfully, Thai people seem to love their eggs and you’ll commonly find a side serving of crispy fried eggs to accompany your meals. Or, if you’re lucky, you may sometimes come across the sweet, tamarind sauce coated and deep fried, hard boiled ‘mother in law eggs‘. Search out the right restaurants, and you’ll be able to order delicious tofu curry soups and Thai salads. Eating at some Thai street food stalls however, you may find that, as a vegetarian, you need to settle for vegetable fried rice or other unsubstantial alternatives.

How to order vegan and vegetarian food in Thai language

For a more in-depth guide on how to order Street food in Thai check out my main Thailand street food phrase guide here. Remember, women use chan and men use pom for I. To be polite, add ka or krap on the end of sentence for women and men, respectively. When ordering vegetarian alternatives in Thai language, it’s useful to know these keywords and phrases…

Vegan: Jey
Vegetarian: Mang-sao-we-rat
I am a vegan: Pom/ chan gin jey
I am a vegetarian: Pom/ chan gin mang-sao-we-rat
I don’t eat meat: Pom/ chan mai gin neua-sat

Do you have a vegetarian menu? Mee a-haan jey mai?
Can I have vegetarian… (fried rice)? Ao (khao pat) jey?

If you don’t eat fish, be careful as a lot of Thai recipes include fish sauce – even if you do tell them that you are vegetarian. To make your order extra clear you can use the Thai phrases…

Don’t put … in it: Mai sai …. (For example, Don’t put fish sauce in it: Mai sai nam bplaa)
I don’t eat …: Pom/ chan gin … mai dai (For example, I don’t eat meat: Pom gin neua-sat mai dai)

Meat: Neua-sat
Fish: Bplaa
Fish sauce: Nam bplaa
Beef: Neua
Chicken: Gai
Pork: Moo
Crab: Bpoo
Egg: Kai
Tofu: Dao-fu

Remember to add ka or krap or you might sound like a bit of an ass! Usually, a waiter or stall vendor will reply with…

Of course: Dai
No I can’t: Mai dai
Yes, we have (a vegetarian menu): Mee
No, we don’t have (a vegetarian menu): Mai mee

A vegetarian’s guide to Thailand

Okay, so it can be hard to find decent, cheap vegetarian street food in Bangkok, but you can still find some nice vegan and vegetarian restaurants around the city at not bad prices. Make sure to check out my guide on the best vegetarian and vegan restaurants in Bangkok here. Outside of Bangkok, the best place I have found for vegetarian food in Thailand is up north in Chiang mai and Pai. Many of the restaurants in Chiang mai are very vegetarian and vegan friendly with plenty of tofu substitutes and creative Western menus.

An absolute must for all vegetarians in Thailand is to visit the Thai vegetarian Festival. During this time in Thailand, 99% of all street stalls and restaurants will provide great vegetarian alternatives. There are some delicious vegetarian salads, noodle dishes and meat substitutes on offer – it’s a surprise that they don’t offer these dishes throughout the rest of the year in Thailand. You can read more about the Thai vegetarian Festival in my article here.

Bangkok To Koh Chang

Posted on March 1, 2014 by koomatzu

Koh Chang is home to some of the nearest beaches to Bangkok. Thailand’s second biggest island, it is located about a 4 to 5 hour journey from the capital.

A quick guide to Koh Chang

Similarly to Koh Samet, the island of Koh Chang has a much more laid back vibe compared to Thailand’s other more famous islands. If you prefer less of a tourist trap vibe, then Koh Chang is a pretty good choice for a beach holiday in Thailand. It’s not quite as ‘Thai’ as Koh Samet though, and attracts mainly foreign tourists rather than local Thai tourists.

Where to stay in Koh Chang

The best area to stay in Koh Chang is along the northern and western coasts – these areas have the most beautiful beaches and the most activity.

To the north is White Sand Beach, the most popular resort in Koh Chang. Although this is often described as overbuilt and over-touristy, for an island in Thailand it’s really rather chilled out and tame. White Sand Beach, as you may have guessed, boasts beautiful, soft white sands and shallow waters with plenty of cool Thai bars along the beachfront. From 2900 baht per night, the Banphu Koh Chang is a great beachfront hotel on White Sand Beach.

To the west, is Lonely Beach. Lonely Beach has much more of a backpacker vibe with some lively bars and characterful, bohemian accommodation and cafes. The beach itself is perhaps equally a beautiful as White Sand Beach, only much more peaceful without any bars along the front. The Siam Beach Resort is well located near Lonely Beach and is at a reasonable price.

If you’re looking for a little more tranquility and romance in Koh Chang, the eastern and southern coasts offer a much more secluded atmosphere. The beaches, however, are not as conventionally beautiful as White Sand and Lonely Beach. Not as white and sandy, obvs.

Getting Around Koh Chang

The island of Koh Chang as a whole is rather big and can be quite a journey to get around. However, in my experience, Koh Chang is one of the easiest islands to get around because of the reasonably priced and regular songtaews.

There seems to be one main road that runs through the main areas of Koh Chang and most hotels are located within easy access to it. You shouldn’t have to wait longer than 5 minutes on the main road before you find a Songtaew – they seem to charge a set price of 100 baht per person during the day (although they get a little greedier at night). Considering the size of the island though, 100 baht per person really isn’t too expensive at all for an 8km journey.

You can also rent scooters to get around on Koh Chang. The terrain is quite easy to get around by visa – unlike some of the other Thai islands, Koh Chang’s main road is in a decent condition and it doesn’t get too jungly in places. Scooters cost from around 150 baht per day.

Things to do in Koh Chang

Sports – There are plenty of fun activities to keep you busy on Koh Chang: Take an ATV tour, a bike tour or head to the tree top adventure park. There are loads of water sports (scuba diving, wind surfing etc) available on the beaches as well – at much cheaper rates than many of the other Thai islands. Many of the hotels on Koh Chang offer Kayak rental services. If you stay at a river hotel in-land, then you can paddle along the river all the way to the sea.

Waterfalls – At 200 baht entry, you can go swimming in Klong Plu Waterfall – This is easily accessible via scooter

Charter your own boat – For larger groups, private fishing boat charters are available for around 7000 baht for the day, or for about 1600 baht per person for a shared boat. Boat trips usually include free pick up, snorkeling, fishing and an on-board lunch and fruit platter. Of course, if you charter your own boat then you’ll have a lot more flexibility to customize your own trip. Just head along to any of the travel agents on the island to book – and don’t be afraid to haggle a little.

Nightlife – There are two main nightlife areas: White Sand Beach and Lonely Beach. Suitable for younger groups, Lonely beach is a little more lively with plenty of blaring dance music, casual beach clubs and random bars selling happy space cakes. In contrast, White Sand Beach is a little more slow-paced – ride the mechanical bull at the Buffalo Bill Steak House; watch live fire shows and bands at the beach front Sabai bar; or simply chill out on a futon at one of the fairy lit bars along the beach.

An evening on White Sand Beach

How to get from Bangkok to Koh Chang

The cheapest and quickest way to get from Bangkok to Koh Chang is by bus or mini van. You can catch a bus from the Ekkamai bus terminal next to BTS Ekkamai station, or catch a mini van from the Victory Monument. If you get the cheaper bus, it costs around 200 baht, whereas the mini van costs 400 baht per journey. The mini van, however is a little faster than the public bus (you can catch mini vans every 20 minutes or so from 6am in the morning).

Whichever bus you choose to take, you’ll be dropped off in Trat. When you get off at Trat, catch a songtaew to Laem Ngop pier. Ferries run hourly throughout the day to Koh Chang from here.

If a 5 hour bus/ferry journey from Bangkok to Koh Chang sounds a little too much for you, you can always fly to Koh Chang instead.

Shops and hostels at Lonely Beach