MBK Center Bangkok

Posted on September 22, 2013 by koomatzu

Shopping Budget: $

Average Clothing Prices: 250 baht

The MBK Center in Bangkok is an extremely popular mall notorious among expats and holiday makers for it’s cheap prices and knockoff brands. Both loved and loathed by expats in the Bangkok community, MBK has a rather hectic atmosphere due to it’s attractive bargains.

The interior of the MBK in Bangkok is pretty much to be expected of a typical cheap shopping centre; dull and boring to look at! Maybe I’ve been spoilt by the glitzy malls of Thailand’s capital city, but MBK just doesn’t float my boat personally. Not only does MBK Center have ugly, harsh florescent lighting and a rather soulless interior, but it seems to be constantly busy and full of shoppers searching for the cheapest bargain. MBK is not exactly one of the most stress-free malls to shop in Bangkok…

However, MBK seems to be one of the more popular malls for the men in Bangkok, perhaps because of it’s wide range of t-shirts and polo shirts, and it’s large section dedicated to the latest technologies and gadgets. You can buy up a simple t-shirt at the MBK from around 150 baht.

One of the best shops in MBK for both men and women’s clothes shopping is Warehouse Export (there are actually a couple of them in the MBK), which sells factory rejects of some fashionable brands such as H&M and Tommy Hilfiger. Other than this, MBK is a little lacking in cool and fashionable clothing shops – it is, however, ideal for tourists shopping for pretty Thai holiday dresses and popular Chang beer or Red Bull vests.

You can buy some cheap shoes from the MBK from as little as 199 baht a pair, but then you do get what you pay for. Bata and Footin, which are located on the second floor, are some very good Bangkok shoe shops which sell good quality shoes from just 199 baht for simple, comfortable sandals. For sneakers shopping, a particularly useful trainer shop at MBK is Genesis, which sells some cool Vans, Nike and Adidas sneakers.

MBK is pretty much the best place to head in Bangkok for knockoff brand shopping though. You’ll find absolutely loads of knockoff brands – many of them pretty close replicas – including Billabong, Lacoste and Diesel. If you head all the way to the top floor, you’ll find a large section of the MBK dedicated to Thai trinkets, lighting and souvenirs perfect as holiday gifts and crafts.

How to get to MBK

You can take the BTS sky train to National Stadium on the Silom Line. This is easy to navigate on the BTS as the National Stadium is actually the terminal station on all the station signs. Once you arrive at the National Stadium, follow signs to the MBK Center. There is actually a second floor walkway which leads directly inside the mall.

Thai Boxing at the MBK

Every Wednesday evening, the MBK Center actually holds Thai Fight Night Boxing matches… for free! Compared to the high amount charged to foreigners by the Lumpini Thai Boxing Stadium in Bangkok, this is a great opportunity for anybody with an interest in Thai Boxing.

Head on over to the MBK Center from 6pm and you’ll find a small ring just outside of the main doors. Matches start every Wednesday from 6pm.

Pun Pun Bike Share Bangkok

Posted on September 20, 2013 by koomatzu

The recently introduced Pun Pun bikes have sprung up pretty quickly around various parts of Bangkok city. After the huge success of the bike hire programmes in the west such as the Barclay Bikes (aka Boris Bikes) in England and B-Cycle bike sharing in America, Thailand has now officially caught on to this eco-friendly and useful transport scheme.

With the crazy Bangkok traffic jams, squeezed buses, rammed subway systems and slightly scary motorcycle taxi drivers, the Pun Pun bikes make a welcome addition to Bangkok’s rather congested public transport system.

Pun Pun Bike Information

How To Register

To be able to use the Pun Pun bikes in Bangkok, you will need to first find a manned Pun Pun bike station and register. You will need to bring you passport with you to sign up, they will then take your photo, give you a card, pin number, and show you how to release and lock the Pun Pun Bikes.

Due to lack of people using the bikes so far, the signup fee has recently been reduced to a total of 120 baht – that includes 100 baht’s worth of credit. And that’s it! Cheap eh?

Pun Pun Bike Prices

Again, due to Pun Pun unpopularity so far, hire prices have been generously reduced. For the first hour of use, bikes are FREE to use! After this, it costs just 20 baht for up to 3 hours use and, for 8 hours or more, 100 baht.

I can imagine many people will only be cycling short distances less than an hour away on Pun Pun Bikes anyway, so this is great value.

Pun Pun Bike Regulations

Pun Pun bike share stations are open for use between 7am and 8pm. All bikes have GPS and users will be fined 500 baht if they are not returned by 8pm.

Trying out the Pun Pun Bike Share programme

So, the city of Bangkok has put quite a bit of effort into the new Pun Pun Bike Share transport programme to encourage locals to try them out… But are they really a success yet? Recently armed with my very own Pun Pun membership, I’ve taken on the crazy traffic of Bangkok on my Pun Pun Bike…

After signing up at the manned kiosk and releasing my Pun Pun bike, I set off down the cycle lane of the busy main Sathorn road. There seem to be clusters of stations in certain areas of Bangkok while other districts appear to be somewhat neglected by the Pun Pun bikes – Sathorn is one of the few areas of Bangkok blessed with an abundance of Pun Pun stations.

However, after a 10 minute, sweaty bike ride to Lumpini, I arrived at the supposed Pun Pun station shown on the map and… it’s not finished being built yet. I checked the map for the next nearest station, Sala Daeng, and headed over there. It was about 6.40pm by this time – plenty of time before closing at 8pm right? Well, the manned station had closed early for the night so I had to search for yet another station. Needless to say, I was pretty sweaty and late by the time I’d arrived to meet my friends…

Problems with the Pun Pun Bike Share in Bangkok

It seems that the Pun Pun Bike Share programme in Bangkok is currently suffering a state of limbo, where they are still in the process of building stations and, to be honest, probably should not have opened it’s doors to customers just yet. Instead of updating maps and information accordingly to show users which stations aren’t open yet, the map is deceiving and allows you to think that they are ALL open.

Not only are the maps wrong, but workers at the manned Pun Pun stations sometimes decide to randomly close up early. You cannot return your Pun Pun bike to a manned station unless somebody is there, so this is seriously irritating.

I have also noticed that workers have a tendency to ‘top up’ stations on the evenings ready for the morning. They make their rounds on a truck, and completely fill up the stations with Pun Pun bikes up to an hour before closing… Doesn’t seem particularly sensible to me, so I’m thinking this could cause problems for some people returning the Pun Pun Bikes later in the evenings as there will be no spare spaces.

I really do hope the Pun Pun Bikes will be successful in Bangkok because the idea behind them has such great potential. It may just be worth being aware of some of these early teething problems while they are still in the process of developing the system though.

Bangkok Clothes Shopping Guide

Posted on September 18, 2013 by koomatzu

Looking for cheap clothes, bargain designer brands, knock offs like Armani and Hollister fashions, or plus size clothing in Bangkok? For specific shopping needs in Bangkok, check out my shopping guide below.

Alternatively, click here for a guide on typical Thailand shopping prices or learn more about particular areas mentioned below in Bangkok Markets or Bangkok shopping malls.

Clothes Shopping In Bangkok

Where to buy cheap, affordable clothing in Bangkok…

For shopping on a budget in Bangkok, one of the cheapest markets to go clothes shopping is Pratunam, a wholesale clothes market. Most of the sellers in Bangkok buy their stock from Pratunam market so you can at least be sure that you’re getting a bargain, although it is much cheaper to buy in bulk at Pratunam market.

You can find Pratunam market near Baiyoke tower on Petchaburi Road, prices typically range from 100 – 250 baht for clothing such as cardigans, leggings, printed t-shirts, colourful dresses, harem trousers, vest tops and shirts. It’s mainly better for women, there aren’t so many men’s clothes around Pratunam.

Pratunam Market

Another very popular market for cheap clothes shopping in Bangkok is Chatuchak, just off of Mo Chit BTS station. Chatuchak has pretty much everything including Bohemian, indie and Thai fashion styles of clothing, accessories and shoes; prices range from just 150 baht to 250 baht per item of clothing.

You know it’s a cheap place to shop in Bangkok when all the locals shop there. To shop where all the young Thai locals shop (sorry chaps, mainly just ladies clothes), be sure to check out the street markets of Siam and On nut. These are both night markets so the best time to visit is sometime after 6pm in the evening. They have everything from hair accessories, shoes for 200 baht, cute Thai fasions, handbags and a few knockoff brands such as Superdry and Hollister.

You can find these cheap bangkok shopping markets at Siam opposite Siam paragon just off Siam BTS and along Petchaburi Road just off Chit Lom BTS. On nut is also easy to find just off of BTS On Nut opposite Tesco Lotus. Prices start from just 30 baht for a muscle vest to 150 baht for a cute, Thai vintage dress.

Thailand is pretty notorious for it’s knockoff clothes, bags, sunglasses, watches and… well, knockoff everything really. Perhaps the best place to go for knockoff brands in Bangkok is the MBK centre. MBK has absolutely loads of knockoff clothing such as Superdry, Billabong, Diesel and Lacoste.

Patpong night market also sells a particularly large selection of knockoffs, however this market can be a little overpriced and a ripoff. You’ll find knock off Raydan and Oakley sunglasses in pretty much all the markets such as Chatuchak and Patpong.

Where to buy mid range clothing in Bangkok…

For some slightly better quality clothes shopping in Bangkok but not too expensive, try out the shopping mall Terminal 21. Ignoring the designer shops on the bottom floor, the upper floors tend to all be small, boutique, indie designer shops and a good majority of them are decent quality, unique and reasonably priced. Terminal 21 is located right at BTS Asoke station complete with signposts to guide you.

Prices range from 250 baht for an individually designed, printed t-shirt to 3000 baht for evening dresses. Terminal 21 is ideal for lovely cocktail dresses, casual indie clothing, cool shoes and accessories. It even has a whole floor for men’s clothing and is laid out with a different country theme on each floor.

Siam Square, directly opposite Siam Paragon at Siam BTS, is a market complex with shops both indoors and outdoors. There are some pretty dress shops, cool sneakers shops, a wealth of shoe shops and some cute indie boutique shops. Prices range from 200 baht to 1000 baht for dresses and other items of clothing. The fancier shoe shops and skater style sneaker shops move up to about 2500 baht but offer some unique and funky buys.

Plenty loads of individual boutique shops to be found in Siam Square

You may also like to check out my post on the shop Warehouse Export, which sells bargain import brands and good quality clothing for between 150 and 450 baht per piece.

Where to buy designer brands in Bangkok…

The most prominent malls for designer brand shopping in Bangkok are Siam Paragon, Siam Center and Central World. Emporium shopping mall at Prom Phong BTS is another popular designer mall, though it is very expensive. Siam Center is a probably the coolest mall in Bangkok; more interesting than the others with distinctive shops, cool high heel shoes, unique sunglasses and a less mall-like atmosphere.

Designer clothes actually tend to be more expensive in Bangkok than in the west, so it’s best not to be under the illusion of finding bargains while on holiday in Bangkok. However Zen, a department at Central World, tends to have sales on frequently making the brands there a little more affordable. If you’re looking for some massive designer brand sale bargains, Amarin Plaza at BTS Chit Lom almost constantly has some sort of event on it’s ground floor from Billabong to Nike to Karen Miller, and many other brand sales of up to 90% discounts.

Where to buy plus size clothes in Bangkok…

For larger, plus size clothes shopping in Bangkok, Patpong Night Market may be a good option to try. Mainly for men, in particular they offer shorts with a larger waste size for westerners. Alternatively, there is a very specific chain of shops in Bangkok called Warehouse Bilberry which sells clothing up to plus size XXL for both men and women. Prices are very reasonable and good quality as well, starting at around 220 baht for a dress or shirt.

Where to buy men’s clothing in Bangkok…

I feel for men in Bangkok… shops, markets and malls are very much geared towards the female shopper in Bangkok. However, there are some very cool shorts and t-shirts for sale at Chatuchak market and Baiyoke Tower. If you head to the fourth floor of Baiyoke tower, there are some really cool T-shirt designs with parody Star Wars prints and many other designs from around 200 baht.

Shopping at Baiyoke Tower in Bangkok is even better if you are planning on buying a few things as they have some good wholesale deals. They also have some cool shorts with interesting and colourful designs. Similarly, Chatuchak market also has a good range of T-shirts, trainers (sneakers whatever) and shorts with a great choice of both indie, bohemian and Thai style designs.

Because of Chatuchak market’s sheer size compared to Baiyoke Tower, there is much more choice and prices start from around 150 baht for a T-shirt (Although every man I have met in Bangkok absolutely loathes shopping at the jam-packed and maze-like Chatuchak market!).

Check out my shopping blog post on where to buy sneakers in Bangkok for some more really cool men’s clothing, caps and other gear.

Above Eleven Rooftop Bar Bangkok

Posted on September 15, 2013 by koomatzu

Nana Soi 11 is home to many of the more affordable rooftop bars of Bangkok, Above Eleven being among one of the best in this area. Above Eleven Rooftop Bar is located at the top of the luxurious Fraser Suites Hotel and boasts amazing cityscape views over Bangkok.

The bar provides an ambient, chilled out atmosphere with warm lighting and laid back classic pop and rock tunes. The background music isn’t too loud and intrusive so the bar is ideal for chatting and chilling without interruption. The first floor of the rooftop bar comprises of an enclosed bar top surrounded by tables lining the edges, with views overlooking Bangkok.

The whole floor is sleekly designed with patches of grass as the flooring and a hedge maze guarding the über chic toilets. Continue up the attic-style stair case and you’ll find industrial brick walls with cosy uplighting and spot lights brightening the rooftop bar. There are plenty of sophisticated and unique added touches such as tree structured pillars supporting the glass roof that part covers the bar. The upstairs offers inviting and cosy surroundings of comfortable leather sofas and tables.

The sleek and chilled out vibe of Above Eleven Rooftop Bar is a little similar to the neighbouring Nest rooftop bar, only a little more suited for relaxed chatting with friends as the music is quieter and lighting much better – It’s so dark at Nest that the waiters provide you with a torch to read the menu.

Above Eleven Menu

As for the menu at Above Eleven Rooftop Bar, many of the dishes have taken on an elegant Japanese twist. There are an extensive range of sushi dishes starting from 300 baht up to 550 baht per serving, plus an interesting menu of Peruvian Japanese fusion Tapas dishes ranging from 110 baht to 470 baht per dish. The menu mainly comprises of seafood dishes, however there are plenty of chicken, duck and vegetarian options as well.

Continuing the Peruvian/ Japanese theme, there are some very interesting and adventurous fusion cocktails but, at 350 baht per glass, they do not come cheaply. Soft drinks are priced at 90 baht a bottle while beers start at 170 baht per bottle and spirits at 180 per shot. Drinks aren’t that reasonably priced but are cheap compared to other Bangkok rooftop bars such as Banyan Tree and Sky Bar.

How to get to Above Eleven Bangkok

Take the BTS to Nana station and head to Sukhumvit Soi 11 just a couple of metres away from the steps of the station. Make your way down the road until you reach a T-junction, turn left and follow the road round as it bends to the right past the Q Bar. On the right hand side of the road you will find the Fraser Suites Hotel – follow the driveway to the back of the hotel and take the lift to the 32nd floor.

The Best Place To Stay In Bangkok

Posted on September 13, 2013 by koomatzu

On Holiday In Bangkok

The best place to stay in Bangkok is really dependent on each individual; whether you want to go sightseeing in the Thai temples, hang out in the trendy malls, shop in the local markets, wine and dine, or party hard with the backpackers… Typically for tourists visiting on holiday, the best place to stay in Bangkok is the Old City of Bangkok. Silom, Sukhumvit or around the Victory Monument area are also popular areas to stay in Bangkok.

Some travellers tend to catch taxis everywhere while on holiday in Bangkok; this is fine, taxis are super cheap and easy to catch around the city after all. However, if you’re on a budget, you may prefer to stay on holiday in an area of Bangkok located along the BTS, MRT and airport link routes (the green, blue and red lines shown on the map below). The BTS skytrain is particularly impressive and worth a ride at least once anyway.

It can be difficult trying to find where to stay in Bangkok without knowing exactly where the districts, attractions or main areas of Bangkok are.

Best place to stay in Bangkok

Siam (Pathum Wan district)

Siam is the trendy city centre of Bangkok and also perhaps the most expensive area to stay in Bangkok. With dozens of gigantic shopping malls full of world famous restaurants and fast food chains, it’s a shopper’s paradise. Shopping in Siam is actually more expensive than shopping in the West and it seems to be an area of Bangkok for people who like to flash their cash for the sake of it.

If you love a fashionable, cosmopolitan city scene with plenty of designer shopping and fine dining though, then Siam is for you. Siam is quite a spectacular sight – some of the streets and malls have some awesome decorations and you’ll find the ‘hi-so’ Bangkokians hanging around, very glamourously dressed, bumping into each other like moles while taking selfies on their iPhones. It’s a definite contrast to the rest of Bangkok and you won’t find the standard tourist stereotype in their Chang beer vests around Siam.

Ploenchit, Chitlom and the National Stadium area can all be included as a part of Siam, Pathum Wan. A convenient skywalk runs through part of Siam, connecting Chitlom BTS station and the Bangkok shopping malls together so you don’t even need to stray too far from the luxury of air conditioned, cooling goodness.

Christmas lights at Amarin Plaza in Siam

Holiday budget in Siam: $$$$$

SIghtseeing in Siam: Siam Centre, Central World, Siam Square, Phallic Shrine, Erawan Shrine

Where to stay in Siam: Budget – Lub d, Mid range – Siam @ Siam Design Hotel & Spa, Five star – Hansar, Centara Grand

Old City (Rattanakosin):

The Old City is pretty much the polar opposite of Siam – it is extremely touristy and predominantly bohemian. Rattanakosin is the main tourist hub of the city and is the best place to stay in Bangkok for a holiday if you have any interest in history and sightseeing around the beautiful grand temples of Thailand.

There are many cheap backpacker hostels or luxurious hotels to choose from. Entertainment-wise, there is the famous market hangout, Khaosan Road, which has many crazy backpacker bars… perhaps making it the best place to stay in Bangkok to have fun mingling with other like-minded travellers.

best place to stay on holiday in bangkok

Grand Palace in the Old City

However, for people with an interest in more modern city life, fashion and the Bangkok nightlife; it can be a distance away from the main centre of activity and apart from buses and ferries, Rattanakosin is not a part of the sky train and subway system. Although taxis should not cost much more than 100 baht (£2 or $3) to travel to the other main areas of Bangkok, this can leave you a little stranded in rush hour times, for example between 3pm and 7pm, when many taxi drivers will likely refuse your fare to avoid getting stuck in the crazy Bangkok traffic.

Holiday budget in the Old City: $

Attractions in the Old City: Grand Palace, Wat Arun, Khaosan Road

Where to stay in the Old City: On a budget – NapPark Hostel , Mid range – Lamphu Treehouse, Luxury – Baan Noppawong

Victory Monument (Phayathai):

Centrally located in Bangkok only stops away from Siam, MBK, Silom and Chatuchak weekend market on the BTS, Victory monument is one of the most ideally located areas of Bangkok for both travellers and expats. Not only is there the Suvarnabhumi airport link at Phayathai, but it is also one of the main transport hubs for the buses and minibuses for any day trips around or out of Bangkok.

In the evenings, the streets come alive with Thai street stalls squeezed on the sidewalks selling food and clothing. There is wee bit of nightlife around, particularly along Rang nam Road but it is mainly aimed at Thai clientele. Phayathai is a great change from the perhaps overly touristy Old City, yet still lively and interesting enough to stay in Bangkok for a holiday.

Holiday budget at the Victory Monument: $$$

Nightlife at the Victory Monument: Saxophone Pub, Raintree Pub, Rock Pub

Where to stay at the Victory Monument: Asia Hotel Bangkok

Silom (Bang Rak):

Silom could arguably be one of best places to stay in Bangkok. Attracting quite a few tourists and expats alike, it is particularly busy and lively with plenty going on 24 hours a day; everything you need is right at your doorstep. Abundant in bars and cafes, shopping boutiques, luxury apartments and palm tree lined roads, it is maybe one of the most attractive areas of Bangkok.

If visiting Thailand on holiday, the Silom area can provide an ideal place to stay in Bangkok to explore the city, for both the popular tourist attractions of the old city by taxi or ferry, as well as the more sophisticated, modern city life. Located in close proximity to the Bangkok city centre and along the main BTS sky train route, Silom is definitely a place of convenience, but there are two very different sides to Silom that some may want to be aware of.

The western side of Silom, towards the river, is relatively quiet and subdued whereas the eastern end near Sala deng BTS station (AKA Patpong) can be looked upon as a slightly seedy tourist trap if you’re not prepared for it. The Patpong area is a particularly popular area of Bangkok for the girls and the gogo bars.

Thaniya Road, AKA ‘Japan Street’

Don’t let this put you off staying in the Eastern area of Silom though; the bustling streetwalks full of fairy-lit night stalls, cute cafes, sophisticated restaurants, modern shopping complexes and vibrant local backstreets still make it an appealing and charming area of Bangkok… So despite it’s impressively copious amount of massage parlours and brothels that come alive at night, both gay and straight, it’s still an interesting area to stay in Bangkok for other non-sex tourists!

Patpong’s ‘Japanese Street’, kind of like Bangkok’s ‘Little Japan’ filled with Tokyo style Neon signs and Japanese restaurants, is worth a visit. During the night, you will be hounded by Madams and Tuk Tuk drivers but it is still worth a look at least – It can be surprisingly entertaining to sit and eat some local Thai noodles from a street stall while watching the people go by.

Holiday budget in Silom: $$$

Where to go in Silom: Roadhouse, Sky Bar, Japan Street, Patpong Night Market, Maggie Chu’s, Hindu Temple

Where to stay in Silom: Budget – Lub d, Luxury – Hangover 2 Hotel!

Sathorn (Bang Rak)

Sathorn is slightly more quiet than some of the other touristy areas of Bangkok, the business district of Bangkok if you will. It is chilled out yet busy enough to be a happy medium between the bustling centre and unexciting Bangkok outskirts. For travellers who want the best of both worlds – to be in convenient, easy reach to all the points of interest but also have a peaceful escape from the hustle and bustle of the tourist traps of Bangkok – Sathorn has it all; local life in the everyday backstreet, smokey sois as well as modern cafes, students and office workers going about business on the main street.

Towards the eastern Lumpini end of Sathorn, you can find the fancier restaurants and hotels to stay in Bangkok. The western side of Sathorn road has plenty of cheap, local places to eat and can be the best place to stay in Bangkok for people on a budget, in search of a little more peace. The western end of Sathorn is within easy walking distance to Surasak BTS to keep you connected to any other upcoming area of Bangkok. The central ferry pier is close by for access to the Old City and lively Silom is only a 10 minute walk away.

Holiday budget in Sathorn: $$ – $$$

What to do in Sathorn: Follow Me Bicycle Tours, Chinese Cemetery, Secret Garden, Lebua at State Tower

Where to stay in Sathorn: Budget – Saphaipae, Average – Heritage Hotel, luxury – Eastin Grand

Nana and Asoke (Sukhumvit)

The main road between Nana and Asoke is largely multicultural. It’s an odd mixture of both expats and holidaymakers; The sidewalks are teaming with street vendors selling dresses, DVDs, bags and sex toys, while the side street’s prostitutes cater to some of the sex tourists. On the other hand, you’ll find some more elegant rooftop bars, restaurants and shopping centres to keep other tastes entertained.

Some parts of the area, particularly the renowned Soi 11, are somewhat a bit of a tourist trap. Tuk tuk drivers will follow you around as if you’re a walking dollar sign and taxis will try to extort whoever they can. Although Nana and Asoke attract a mixture of types, the area is mainly appealing and more suited to the male tourists and expats. In particular, for the go go bars in Bangkok, ‘Soi Cowboy’ is one of the most famous red light district areas in Thailand for it’s choice and sheer volume of go go bars.

Soi Cowboy

Soi Cowboy can be a pretty grisly affair for many mind! Go go bars aside, some travellers may still appreciate the huge volume of souvenir selling street vendors and suit tailors lining the hectic streets of Nana. However, if you find this sort of thing just plain irritating, then maybe this is not the area of Bangkok for you. I would not really recommend Nana as a place to stay in Bangkok for younger couples, and especially not for family holidays.

As for the location, Nana and Asoke are conveniently close to the centre of Bangkok activity and within easy reach of the main BTS route. Holiday makers can enjoy shopping at Terminal 21 and party at the huge choice of modern nightclubs, rooftop bars (read more about Soi 11 nightlife here), pubs and restaurants (including the huge American style diner, ‘Angel Diner’). Soi 11 in particular is absolutely crammed full of choice in nightlife for the average person.

Holiday budget in Nana: $$$$

Where to go in Nana: Terminal 21, Benjakiti park, Cheap Charlies, The Nest, Angel Diner

Where to stay in Nana: Budget – Asoke Montri Hostel, Mid/high – Park Plaza Bangkok, Five star – Ariyasomvilla Hotel

Thonglor and Ekkamai (Sukhumvit)

Thonglor, Phrom Phong and Ekkamai are the reputed ‘hi-so’ areas of Bangkok located a couple of stops past Nana and Asoke from central Siam on the BTS. This area of Bangkok is far from touristy and is home mainly to professional expats and wealthy Thais. It may be a suitable place to stay in Bangkok for business travellers more than holiday makers.

There are not many attractions for tourists and travellers per se, but Thonglor, Ekkamai and Phrom Phong may prove appealing as a good place to stay in Bangkok for food connoisseurs, people who like to wine and dine, or those who like to search out cool, laid back trendy places off the beaten track. Again, this is the complete opposite to the bohemian back packer areas of Bangkok and much more suited to travellers looking for a little more sophistication and normality.

This area of Bangkok, is Thailand’s capital city at it’s finest and most modern. There are plenty of expensive, international restaurants and pubs to more quirky, cool Thai hangouts and bars. You definitely won’t be short on places to eat, however bars and restaurants are rather spread around the area so it’s best to know your way around.

Holiday budget in Thonglor: $$$$$

Where to go in Thonglor: Tuba Bar, Banrie Coffee, Witches Tavern, Iron Fairies

Where to stay in Thonglor: Low – DS67 Suites Hotel, medium/ high – Somerset Sukhumvit Thonglor, luxury – Bangkok Marriott Hotel

On Nut

On Nut is located another few stops further past Ekkamai from central Bangkok. Although it is a little further out of the centre, travellers can still easy catch the BTS to get around the city.

Many people who have a connecting flight in Bangkok and need somewhere to stay for the night decide to stay in On Nut – it’s convenient as it’s closer to the outskirts in the direction of Suvarnabhumi yet still well connected with the rest of the city to make the most of a short stay there.

On Nut Night Market & Beer Garden

Accommodation comes pretty cheaply due to On Nut’s slightly out of the way location and it manages to escape the tourist trap feel that other areas of Bangkok sometimes suffer. The atmosphere in On Nut is quite laid back and mainly home to western expats and locals.

Holiday budget in On Nut: $$

Where to go in On Nut: On Nut Night Market, Erawan Shrine (via BTS or taxi)

Where to stay in On Nut: Low – Imm Fusion Hotel

Wongwian Yai to Talat Phlu (Thonburi)

Thonburi is located a distance away from the centre of Bangkok, across the river that cuts through the city. However it is still in easy reach of the main sights of Bangkok if you stay in Wongwian Yai or Talat Phlu, near the BTS. Saphan Taksin main pier is only a couple of stops away on the BTS. These areas have only recently been integrated into the BTS system, so are relatively untouched by tourism compared to the rest of Bangkok.

There aren’t many foreigners around Thonburi at all. In fact, as a foreigner, you may get a few more stares and giggles from the locals around these areas. English isn’t as commonly spoken and the landscape is less built up and much more subdued, especially so at the further out Talat Plu at least.

If you want more a more authentic holiday in Thailand and less of the tourist trap games, Thonburi is where to stay in Bangkok. Accommodation, shopping and food costs are cheaper here, however atmosphere and entertainment is still a little lacking. In my opinion, Thonburi misses out on the vibrant energy and craziness (good crazy, mind) of central Bangkok.

Holiday budget in Thonburi: $

Where to go in Thonburi: Khlong Lat Mayom Floating Market, The Beach bar, The Mall Thapra, King Taksin Monument

Where to stay in Thonburi: Mid – Bangkok Loft Inn

Amphawa Floating Market

Posted on September 11, 2013 by koomatzu

Bangkok To Amphawa

Amphawa Floating Market is located about an hour’s drive outside of Bangkok and can easily be reached direct by minibus. Out of all the many floating markets around the Bangkok area, Amphawa is perhaps one of the biggest and more popular markets among local and Thai tourists.

Amphawa Floating Market has a fantastic atmosphere: heaps of delicious food stalls and quirky clothes shops squeezed along the board walks, paddle boats parked along the sides of the canal with barbecues onboard brimming with fresh seafood, and visitors relaxing at small tables perched along the edges enjoying the cuisine… the whole environment of Amphawa is pretty relaxed and not at ally pushy or tourist trappy.

If you class yourself as a bit of a food connoisseur, or just plain love trying different regional foods and snacks, Amphawa is ideal for tasting and nibbling as you go. Whether you sample the steamed buns, roti pancakes and all the hundreds of other Thai desserts, or eat the freshly grilled choice of seafood, river prawns and Thai dishes; you will love the eating your way along the Thai canals!

Boat tours are available at various points along the river and typically sit between four and ten passengers. Khlong boat fares are a standard price of 60 baht per person or 400 baht per group for about an hour’s ride. The boat will stop whenever you ask so that you can have a taste of the freshly cooked Thai food along the way. Food and boats… who wouldn’t like these things?

Although the standard tours from Bangkok to Amphawa tend to take passengers to the floating market in the early hours or during the daytime, the market actually get’s at it’s most interesting during the evening time. A good time to get to Amphawa Floating market is around 3pm or 4pm, while the weather is a little more mild and the crowd a little less restless.

If you head to the market during the evening, you’ll find cosy fairy lights brightening the walkways and adding a charm and magic to the atmosphere. Live acoustic music will add to the chilled out atmosphere as it starts to sound from the hidden, laid back Thai bars. Amphawa floating market stays open until 10pm (the bars until later) so travellers can have fun cork shooting at random stalls for 10 baht; shop for hand made souvenirs, pretty clothing and quirky accessories; or relax with a beer in one of the canal-side bars and restaurants.

Amphawa, Samut Songkhran

The area of Amphawa is packed full of beautiful temples, markets* and parks and is definitely worthy of an overnight stay away from Bangkok. Transport around the town is rather lacking, however there are many boat tours available to take you to all the main sights and temples of Amphawa. Hotels can usually easily arrange these boat day tours for you.

Due to the lack of tuk tuks and songtaews, it’s best to stay close to the floating market and main hub of activity. A particularly good hotel in an ideal location right next to Amphawa floating market is Amphawa Nanon Hotel & Spa. Not only does staying overnight in a hotel Amphawa mean that you can relax in the bars along the floating market, but it also means that you can take a trip to watch the notorious fireflies of Samut Songkhran distict.

How To Get To Amphawa Floating Market

To get from Bangkok to Amphawa floating market, you can catch a mini bus from the Victory Monument station for around 100 baht one-way. The mini bus conveniently takes you directly to the market. It will drop you at a stop just next to a bridge which has steps down to the canal.

*My personal recommendation is to avoid Damnoen Saduak Floating Market. On the whole, the market is not as authentic or charming as many other floating markets and the canal is dirty, full of litter and lacking in atmosphere. In my experience, despite being quiet and less popular among tourists, Damnoen Saduak Floating Market is a pretty bad tourist trap full of unfriendly and pushy people.

Bangkok To Kanchanaburi

Posted on September 6, 2013 by koomatzu

A weekend in Kanchanaburi

Kanchanburi is a peaceful and picturesque area of Thailand just a two hour drive (130 km) away from Bangkok. Kanchanaburi is mainly famed for it’s historic Bridge Over The River Kwai as well as arguably boasting some of the best waterfalls in Thailand. If you’re looking to spend the weekend away to escape the hustle and bustle of Bangkok, Kanchanaburi is ideal.

Attractions and hotels in Kanchanaburi are relatively spread out from the main town area so it pays to rent a car to get around Kanchanaburi – some of the waterfalls are as far as 70 km away from the main town. Songthaews are plentiful though, and their prices are pretty reasonable.

Although public buses are easily available in Kanchanaburi, these take a very long time and it may not be worth some people’s time if they are only staying in Thailand on holiday temporarily. Typically, a two night stay is long enough for a quick trip to Kanchanaburi.

How to get from Bangkok to Kanchanaburi

The best way to get from Bangkok to Kanchanaburi is by minibus. You can catch a mini bus for 120 baht at the Phayathai minibus station. Just take the BTS to Phayathai, follow exit signs for the Victory Monument and you will find a small station at the bottom of the steps. The minibus to Kanchanaburi only takes about two hours.

Trains and public buses are available from Bangkok to Kanchanaburi but can be unreliable and slow. You can check the bus timetable here – just make sure to head to the Southern bus terminal only as the website is a little outdated. Once you arrive in Kanchanaburi, a Songthaew will cost between 100 and 150 baht to take you to your hotel.

Where to stay in Kanchanaburi

When booking accommodation in Kanchanaburi, it is important to look into the details of the location of the hotel. If you’re keen to explore the nightlife and restaurants of Kanchanaburi, opt for a hotel in Kanchanaburi town. The liveliest part of Kanchanaburi town is based towards the River Kwai Bridge.

Good Times Resort is located nearby the bridge and is a brand new, reasonably priced hotel with friendly staff and close proximity to the main attractions and nightlife of the main town. Even closer still, is the more luxurious Felix River Kwai Hotel.

If you’d prefer a tranquil escape in the countryside of Kanchanaburi, Royal River Kwai Resort offers a spa style getaway amongst beautiful surroundings. The Mida Resort is also located a little further into the country of Kanchanburi and offers the choice of beautiful villas, riverside camping, luxury spa and cool activities like quad biking.

Top things to do in Kanchanaburi

Take a boat ride along the river – You can charter a long-tail boat from a couple of different stops along the river, the easiest place to hire one being around the River Kwai Bridge. The Floating Restaurant located next to the bridge rents boats for 800 baht an hour and they fit up to 8 people. A trip along the river allows you to stop off at many of the attractions along the way such as caves, shrines and the famous War Cemetery.

Explore the waterfalls – Kanchanaburi is home to dozens of waterfalls and different national parks, however the most popular waterfall among visitors and locals is Erawan National Park Waterfall. Erawan waterfall is located about 70 km away from the town centre so you will need to take a songtaew or drive. Entry costs 200 baht for non-Thais or 60 baht for expats if you bring your work permit.

The waterfall has seven tiers in total and take around a 40 minute walk through monkeys and forest to reach the top, largest waterfall. Erawan waterfall gets very busy with people swimming and sliding down the rocks so if you’d prefer a quiet, tranquil scene, then it would be best to leave as early as possible in the day. Be prepared for the badass gangs of fish in the waterfalls though, they’re pretty nibbley and some of them about as big as my arm…

Visit the Bridge Over The River Kwai – Of course it wouldn’t be a trip to Kanchanaburi without a historic visit to the River Kwai Bridge. Located right in the centre of activity in the main town, you can take a ride on the train across the bridge, visit the war museum and take some photos on the bridge. If you want to beat the crowds, head there earlier in the morning rather than later.

Things to do at night in Kanchanaburi

Make sure to check out the Kanchanaburi Night Market located next to Kanchanaburi train station on Sangchuto Road. Open from 6pm until 10pm, the Thai night market is not too big and overwhelming like some of Thailand’s other more famous markets. It’s not overly busy and attracts mainly Thais than western tourists, making the Kanchanaburi night market all the more authentic and different.

The night market sells an array of clothing, underwear and shoes at very cheap prices, much cheaper than other areas of Thailand. However, my favourite part about the Kanchanaburi night market is the multitude of super cheap food stalls selling Thai snacks, desserts and meals. If sampling Thai snacks and food excites you, you will love the night market!

The bars and nightlife of Kanchanaburi are mainly accumulated along the River Kwai Road (or, in Thai, Maenam Kwai road). All the popular tourist bars are located towards the eastern end of the River Kwai Road from the River Kwai Bridge. There are a good selection of bars from blaring dance music and backpacker-filled live reggae bars, to quieter bars with pool tables and girl bars.

For some nightlife a little more Thai-style, the River Kwai Hotel has a very cool bar at the front of the hotel complex called the Cowboy Bar. The Cowboy Bar is an open roofed bar with live Thai bands and chilled out, young Thai patrons. Staff don’t tend to speak English and the environment is a little more dressed up and calm compared to Maenam Kwai road.

The hotel also has a nightclub called Glitzy, a very popular nightclub in Kanchanaburi which has live bands every night. The music at Glitzy is mainly Thai and the club attracts a very young crowd.

Cafe Tartine, Phloen Chit Bangkok

Posted on September 4, 2013 by koomatzu

Cafe Tartine is a bright and airy French cafe & patisserie serving a wide range of delicious salads, sandwiches, quiches and French desserts. The interior of Cafe Tartine is small and cosy yet spacious and light, furnished with birch wood tables and specialist wine bottles lining the walls. Customers have the option to sit either inside, or on the peaceful and comfortable terrace which has fans and cushioned seating. The road outside the cafe is rather quiet so it makes for a tranquil Al Fresco lunch.

Cafe Tartine is perfect for a healthy treat or a relaxed, casual afternoon lunch or brunch with friends in Bangkok. The menu prices range from around 140 to 250 baht per meal and the food served there is very good quality. The most unique thing about Cafe Tartine though, is it’s Create Your Own Salad & Sandwich menu.

With a huge choice of dressings, fillings and salad ingredients, you can have your perfect lunch for an average of just 200 baht. Although, the standard dishes on the main menu are good enough without needing to personalise them. Cafe Tartine’s Cobb Salad for example, comes jam-packed full of bacon, egg, pepper, blue cheese, roast chicken and avocado with a side of freshly baked bread.

Sandwiches come with a side of salad and cover everything from chicken, olive and goats cheese, to prosciutto ham and melted cheese. If you’re feeling particularly hungry, you can opt for the pork chop with french fries and roasted vegetables for just 230 baht. As for drinks, home made iced tea at Cafe Tartine costs just 50 baht for unlimited refills and comes with an optional jug of syrup if you don’t like it too sweet.

However, with a divine range of flans, chocolate pies and beautiful French cakes, desserts at Cafe Tartine are definitely not to be forgotten… The chocolate & pumpkin pie and the apple tart are particularly good; desserts are not too sweet and are noticeably made with high quality ingredients.

How to get to Cafe Tartine

Take the BTS to Phloen Chit station and follow the exit to the Novotel Hotel. Cafe Tartine is only a minute’s walk from the station, just take the turning into Ruamrudee road on the corner of Novotel Hotel, and Cafe Tartine is a few hundred metres on the right hand side.

Agalico Tea Room & Cafe, Bangkok

Posted on August 31, 2013 by koomatzu

If you are living in Bangkok and feeling homesick for a proper, old English tea room, Agalico in Thonglor may be just what you’re looking for. Open everyday from 10am until 6pm, Agalico Tea Room offers stunning and elegant surroundings to enjoy a quiet and relaxed catchup with friends.

In fact, the interior of Agalico is so impressive that they even have photographers on hand taking portraits of paying customers. Okay, this may be partly down to Agalico Tea Room’s fame in Bangkok after being part of the set of a popular Thai movie, but it’s still really impressive nonetheless. On the top floor, you’ll find young Thai socialites being snapped away on camera in a room decorated in antique English Period style.

Don’t let the photographer weirdness put you off going to Agalico Tea Room though! With contemporary gardens full of comfortable seating, beautiful, white and blue, colonial-American decor and meticulous attention to detail, Agalico Tea Room provides a great, tranquil atmosphere to enjoy your favourite cup of tea in Bangkok… Just make sure to get there early before the best cake and scones run out.

Agalico has a decent choice of teas to choose from and a pot will typically cost you 120 baht. Cakes and quiche cost 120 baht also, however, for a tea room, there is not a great choice of cakes and they’re not particularly amazing either. Cakes at Agalico Tea Room don’t compare to other Bangkok cafes such as Coffee Beans By Dao, Cafe Tartine and After You. The interesting atmosphere makes up for this though.

How to get to Agalico Tea Room & Cafe

Agalico Tea Room & Gardens are located close to Thong Lor BTS. If taking the BTS, take exit 1 out or the station and walk along the main road until you reach Soi 51. Follow Soi 51 for about a minute walk until you see a large white building on your right – Agalico does not have a sign, just walk into the drive way and take the door on your left.

Expat Interview – Teaching In Bangkok, Claire

Posted on August 27, 2013 by koomatzu

About Claire

Claire – 22 years – Teacher
I come from Johannesburg South Africa and I am currently single. I play the piano as a hobby, although I have not been able to do that since I have been in Thailand. I also do road cycling as a sport which I really miss. It is almost impossible to do road cycling in Bangkok for fear of being run over. I love cats and dogs and I miss my animals at home terribly. When I see homeless dogs and cats wondering around in Bangkok, it saddens me. I want to take them all home. I also love writing – when I am in the mood. I started a blog a few months after I arrived in Thailand.

Living In Thailand

Where do you live in Thailand and how long have you been here?
I live in an area called Sathorn – close to the BTS station Saphan Taksin in Bangkok, I have been here for 8 months.

Why did you decide to move to Thailand?
To gain some teaching experience. It is also a fantastic destination for travelling to some exotic locations.

What are the positive and negative aspects of living in Thailand so far?
I would definitely say that one of the ‘negative’ aspects of living in Thailand is the language barrier. It makes everyday tasks, such as getting from place to place, quite difficult. Transport here can get frustrating. It takes a long time to go short distances because of traffic or because you have to use various forms of transport just to get from one place to another.

Positive aspects are that you are immersed in a completely different way of life that makes you really appreciate what you have. People can also be really friendly. It is also a great hub for travelling if you have the time.

Do you live on a budget or do you live luxuriously?
When I first got to Thailand I was living on a huge budget. Now, my job pays a lot more then my first job did. I would not say I live luxuriously, but I so splurge every now and again. My accommodation is also not that fancy. I would say that I live like a middle class citizen. I also try and save a bit at the end of each month.

What is the strangest/funniest thing that has happened to you since moving here?
I have had so many strange/funny experiences it is hard to remember them all. I would say that funny experiences come to trying to communicate with Thai’s that can barely speak English. Your charades skills definitely improve. I have also had many funny experiences with the kids in my class. I have definitely have adventures in Thailand – too many to put here. Most of my adventures come out of the most unlikely situations.

How is your Thai?
I have a VERY basic understanding of Thai. I know simple phrases to get me around. I learnt some of these phrases from a one week Thai course I did and some from being in situations where I just had to learn some phrases. I would definitely say that being able to count and ask how much is quite important. The minute you can say a few simple phrases in Thai, the locals think you are brilliant.

Renting in Thailand

I am currently renting a studio in a condominium. I have had my fair share of experience in renting in Thailand. I would advise not to rent long term in a serviced apartment. Normally you get ripped off with your water and electricity. I was also not in the best serviced apartment when I first arrived in Bangkok – it was expensive and the air-conditioning barely worked. Aircon is a must in this country.

The studio I am currently renting is in a condominium. If you rent in a condominium you normally have to sign a year’s contract and pay a two month deposit. However, you do not get ripped off on water and electricity as it all goes through the municipality. I have been quite happy with my condominium. I have had one or two problems, but that is normal.

Working In Thailand

What are the challenges you have come across in your job in Thailand?
I am a Biology teacher at a Thai private school. It has its ups and downs. It can get rather frustrating as the Thai culture can get in the way. For example, if a Thai teacher has an issue with you about something that you might or might not be doing, they will not tell you directly, but rather tell someone else who then has to tell you. My classes also get cancelled on a frequent basis which can get annoying.

What are the positive things you have come across in your job in Thailand?
The experience. I have definitely gained some invaluable experience.

What advice would you give somebody about to start working in a similar position to you?
You learn to be patient. This is Thailand – nothing ever happens on time. If you need something done now, it will only be done tomorrow. Patience, patience, patience is all I can say.

Thailand Visa

What kind of visa do you have?
I currently have my non-immigrant B visa
How do you apply for your visa/ renew your visa?
To get the visa I had now, I had to get a bunch of documents from the school. They then took me to Thai immigration to get it.
Have you had to do any visa runs before? Where?
Yes, when I had my tourist visa I did a border run to Cambodia.
Have you experienced any visa problems?
Work permit problems: They do not recognize South Africans as a native English speaking country so I had to do a TOEIC test which is like a TEFL test.

Travel In Thailand

What is your favourite area of Thailand so far? What places would you recommend visiting?
So far, Koh Chang. It is not full of tourists and it is a beautiful island. Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai are also really beautiful.

Things To Do In Bangkok

What would be your recommended must-see places, activities, bars, clubs or restaurants in Bangkok?
Hmm – tough one. There are some nice areas in Thonglor. Basically you just need to walk around and try anything that looks cool

Do you have a favourite place to shop?
I do not buy from markets anymore as the quality is so bad and the clothes don’t fit me. So I tend to buy from international brands such as H&M and Mango.

What do you do for fun in Bangkok? Any hobbies or activities?
Relax with friends. Don’t really have any hobbies yet :/

Expat advice

What advice would you give to newly arriving expats?
Be patient…the culture takes some time to get used to.